Introduction
Buying clothes that are too small can be frustrating, but it's often better to choose a size that fits and then have it tailored. As a tailor with over 25 years of experience, it’s always best to buy a larger size and have a professional tailor it down to fit. Let’s explore why this is the more cost-effective and aesthetically pleasing option.
Why Bigger Sizes Are Preferable
When you buy clothes from a store, they are usually designed to fit a specific size, which may not always be your size. In cases where you prefer to buy clothes that are slightly too small, the next logical step is to have them tailored. However, buying clothes that are too small and then having them altered is a much more complicated task. Here’s why:
Garment Sewing Basics
It’s important to understand that garments have specific allowance for seams. Seam allowances are the extra fabric width left around the seam to allow for sewing and fit adjustments. Seam allowances generally range from 0.625 inches (5/8 inch) to 0.375 inches (3/8 inch).
For 5/8 inch seam allowances, if a tailor needs to let out the seams by 1/4 inch, the garment width can be increased by a maximum of 1 inch. However, reducing the garment size without compromising the fit is a considerably harder task. Attempts to increase the size of a garment will likely result in tearing and damage due to insufficient fabric.
On the other hand, if 3/8 inch seam allowances are present, the garment might tear at the seams when the tailor attempts to let out 1/4 inch, resulting in a loss of seam allowance. Additionally, fabric matching becomes a significant challenge, as detailed adjustments can make the garment look distorted or odd.
Alternatives for Reducing Size
Reducing a garment’s size often requires more effort and could compromise the appearance of the garment. Fabric cannot be added between the seams without causing noticeable changes to the garment's structure. Unless the garment has large seam allowances, you might need to use an insert of another fabric, which may not be the look you’re aiming for.
For those who are especially mindful of their appearance, the best approach is to buy a larger garment and have it tailored to fit your size. This method is more practical and easier to achieve.
Inventory and Seam Considerations
When the garment is very small, it is virtually impossible to add more fabric into the seams. Major manufacturers aim for a comfortable fit for most customers, but occasionally, the seam allowances may be unusually large, allowing for more adjustments. However, in most cases, there is little room for tailoring.
Hidden lines and the original seams often become visible when garments are reduced in size. Inserting panels of extra fabric can help, but it is not a common practice and might negatively impact the garment’s appearance. This method is usually best employed in making jeans or creating a patchwork design.
Best Practices for Choosing Your Fit
When purchasing clothing, it is crucial to measure yourself correctly and choose the most accurate size available. Oftentimes, the clothing store or online retailer will offer guidance on proper sizing, which can be immensely helpful. By doing so, you can avoid the frustration of purchasing items that require extensive tailoring.
When you find an item that you absolutely love but it is not available in your size, consider choosing a size that fits more comfortably and then have it tailored. This approach is recommended over trying to make a size too small larger, as it results in a more aligned and flattering fit.
In conclusion, while it may be tempting to buy clothes that fit slightly too small and then have them tailored, it is often more prudent to choose a size that fits well and then have it adjusted. Tailoring a garment that is already too small can be challenging, but buying a larger size and having it tailored to your specifications is a more manageable and aesthetically pleasing option.