How Do Costume Designers Pay for Clothing Used in TV Shows/Films?

Costume designers play a crucial role in bringing historical and fictional characters to life on screen. However, acquiring the appropriate clothing and accessories can be a complex and demanding task, requiring careful budgeting and strategic planning. Here, we explore the different methods utilized by costume designers to pay for the clothing used in television shows and films.

Budget Allocation

Each production has a budget dedicated to costumes, which includes the cost of clothing, accessories, and sometimes even props. Costume designers work within this budget to purchase or rent items that align with the creative vision of the production.

Costume Houses

Many costume designers rent costumes from specialized costume houses. These companies offer a wide range of outfits from different periods and styles, making it more cost-effective than purchasing new items. Renting outfits can significantly reduce costs, especially for productions with limited budgets.

Purchasing

For unique or specific designs, costume designers may buy clothing from retailers or bespoke designers. This is particularly common when the costume needs to be tailored or altered to fit specific characters or scenes. Purchasing custom-made clothing can be more expensive but ensures precise fitting and character authenticity.

Thrifting and Vintage Stores

Designers often source clothing from thrift shops, vintage stores, or flea markets, especially for period pieces or unique character looks. Thrifting allows costume designers to find one-of-a-kind pieces at a lower cost, contributing to the unique and authentic feel of the production.

In-House Creation

Some productions have in-house costume departments that create original pieces. This approach allows for greater creativity and customization but is typically more expensive. In-house creations are ideal for productions that require a high degree of uniqueness and detail, such as historical dramas or fantasy epics.

Sponsorships and Partnerships

Brands or designers may sponsor a production in exchange for product placement or promotion. This can provide clothing at a reduced cost or for free, benefiting both the production company and the sponsor. Sponsors may also agree to loan out items for use in the production, which must be returned once the shoot is complete.

Recycling and Reusing

Productions often recycle costumes from previous projects or borrow from other productions to save on costs. This not only reduces expenses but also promotes sustainability by reusing existing resources.

Acquisition Methods

Costumes for a film or TV show are acquired through a variety of methods, from buying off the rack to custom making the items. A costume designer may literally go shopping, carrying large suitcase spinner cases to accommodate the various items needed. Online purchasing and ordering from a single company are also common.

Rental Companies

Specialized costume rental companies have huge warehouses filled with a wide range of costumes, from Ancient Egyptian designs to contemporary clothing, adapted for every century and decade. Some smaller rental companies specialize in contemporary clothes, while others focus on luxury designer items.

These rental companies can also create new items specifically for the production, which can be costly. For larger quantities of costumes, the production company may pay to set up a workshop with all the necessary machinery, and hire cutters and seamstresses to create the costumes.

Payment and Accountability

The cost of costumes is paid with the budget allocated to the costume department by the production company. This budget can vary widely, from €50,000 per episode in one series to €24,000 for a full feature film. Costumes are often bought on account, and suppliers may issue a purchase order for larger transactions, with payment made via bank transfer. Smaller expenses may be covered by petty cash, but all expenses must be backed by invoices and receipts to ensure proper accounting.

When working with well-known directors or actors, some fashion companies may lend clothes for the shooting. These items must be returned once the production is finished. However, there have been instances where designer items have mysteriously disappeared, leaving the costume designer to foot the bill.